This classic snowflake design makes this heirloom crochet Christmas stocking stand out from all the rest.

This classic crochet Christmas stocking features a timeless Fair Isle snowflake design and will be loved year after year.

This is the second installment of my basic Christmas stocking pattern. Once I came up with the Dancing Diamonds version this pretty snowflake was not far behind.

It has the exact same construction as the Dancing Diamonds version. We start at the toe and work up to the short row heel, then add our fair isle design and finish off with a cuff and hanger.

Fair Isle Crochet Introduction

Fair Isle crochet is the process of using 2 more colors per row/round to make a picture or pattern. One-color is used at a time and the unworked colors are kept to the back or inside of your work.

The stitch we are using to make our fair Isle design is back loop single crochet.

When you read fair isle charts each box equals a different color. To change color work your stitch up until the last step, pick up your next color and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops on your hook.

This snowflake pattern has sections where your floats will be extra long. To keep them short and less likely to snag its important to trap your floats every 3-4 stitches.

To do this, insert your hook into the next stitch, drape your unworked color over your hook, and complete stitch as usually with the current color.

Materials and Pattern Information

  • 200yds Red Heart Super Saver Yarn or similar in 2 colors
    • Light Sage (A) and Aran (B) shown
  • 5.5mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle

Gauge: 7 sts x 7 rnds blo sc = 2 in

Finished Size: 18 in from top to toe

Abbreviations

  • Ch(s): chain(s)
  • St(s): stitch(es)
  • Sl St: slip stitch
  • Hdc: half double crochet
  • Sc: single crochet
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FLO: front loop only
  • Sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together, creates a decrease

Watch the Video Tutorial Here

Pattern Notes

Toe, foot and leg are worked in joined rounds.

Heel is worked in rows

Ch 1 does not count as a stitch

Join each round to top of 1st stitch with sl st

Watch gauge on colorwork sections, I needed to go up a hook size to a 6mm

Click here to download fair isle charts

Deck your halls with this classic crochet Christmas stocking design.

Print + Crochet in Comfort

You can find a low-cost AD-FREE printable version of this crochet pattern in my shop. You can print it out or use it digitally on your devices.

You can also find this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Crochet Stocking Instructions

Toe

Rnd 1: Using Color B, ch 4 and join to form ring, ch 1, 8 hdc in ring. Join (8)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same st as ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around. Join (16)

Rnd 3: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st as ch 1, *hdc, 2 hdc, repeat from * around. Hdc in last. Join. (24)

Rnd 4: ch 1, hdc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join (24)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same st as ch 1, *hdc 2, 2 hdc, repeat from * around. Hdc in last 2. Join (32)

Rnd 6: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st as ch 1, *hdc 3, 2 hdc, repeat from * around. Hdc in last 3. Join. (40)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, hdc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join (40)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same st as ch1, *hdc 4, 2 hdc, repeat from * around. Hdc in last 4. Join. (48)

Foot

Change to Color A

Rnd 8-10: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join

Rnd 11-15: Work optional Dotted Border Fair Isle Design. Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join

Rnd 16-23: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join

Heel

The video tutorial is very helpful for the heel portion of this pattern. The heel starts at 13:12

The heel is worked in short rows. You’ll be working in turned rows now instead of rounds. We are going to make a pyramid shape (well a ziggurat if we are getting specific) by decreasing at the start and end of the first 7 rows. Then we are going to go back and pick up the stitches we decreased until we have 24 stitches again.

Row 1: Join Color B 12 sts to right of join — Be sure you are not counting the joining slip stitch as a stitch — Ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1, sc in next 23. Turn. (24)

Row 2: Ch 1, skip st at base of ch 1, sc 22. Skip last st. Turn (22)

Row 3: Ch 1, skip st at base of ch 1, sc 20. Skip last st. Turn (20)

Row 4: Ch 1, skip st at base of ch 1, sc 18. Skip last st. Turn (18)

Row 5: Ch 1, skip st at base of ch 1, sc 16. Skip last st. Turn (16)

Row 6: Ch 1, skip st at base of ch 1, sc 14. Skip last st. Turn (14)

Row 7: Ch 1, skip st at base of ch 1, sc 12. Skip last st. Turn (12)

You should have a shape that looks like this:

This is where is starts to feel a little tricky, but you can do it!

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1, sc 11, sc in row end (A in photo above), sc in skipped stitch (A in photo above), sl st in row end (B in photo above). Turn. (14 sc)

Row 9: Ch1, skip sl st, sc 14, sc in row end, sc in skipped stitch, sl st in row end. Turn. (16 sc)

Row 10: Ch1, skip sl st, sc 16, sc in row end, sc in skipped stitch, sl st in row end. Turn. (18 sc)

Row 11: Ch1, skip sl st, sc 18, sc in row end, sc in skipped stitch, sl st in row end. Turn. (20 sc)

Row 12: Ch1, skip sl st, sc 20, sc in row end, sc in skipped stitch, sl st in to same st as 1st sc from row 1. Turn. (22 sc)

Row 13: Ch1, skip sl st, sc 22, sc in row end, sc in skipped stitch, sl st in to same st as last sc from row 1. Turn. (24 sc)

Row 14: Ch1, skip sl st, sc 24, sc in row end, sc in skipped stitch, sl st in to same st as 1st sc from row 1. Finish off. (24 sc)

HINT: now is a good time to weave in your ends for the toe, foot and heel.

Leg

You will be working in joined rounds again

Start selected fair leg design on round 5.

Rnd 1: Hold your stocking so you are looking at the underside of the foot (you should be able to see the seam). On the heel count either 12 stitches to the center from the left or 13 stitches to the center from the right and mark it.

Using Color A, join yarn in marked st, ch 1, working in BLO, sc 12. Sc2tog through both loops starting in edge of heel and ending in next leg st (see photo).

BLO sc in next 22. Sc2tog through both loops starting in next st and edge of heel (see photo). Working in BLO, sc 12. Join. (48 sts)

Rnd 2-4: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join

Rnd 5-25: Work fair isle design. Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join.

Rnd 26-27: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around. Join

Cuff

Rnd 28: Change to Color B, Ch 1, hdc in same st as ch 1 and in each st across. Join

Rnd 29: Ch 1, working in 3rd loop, hdc in same st as ch 1 and in each st across. Join.

Rnd 30: Ch 1, working in BLO hdc in same st as ch 1, *FLO Hdc in next, BLO Hdc in next, repeat from * around. FLO hdc in last. Join

Rnd 31: Ch 1, working in FLO hdc in same st as ch 1, *BLO Hdc in next, FLO Hdc in next, repeat from * around. BLO hdc in last. Join

Rnd 32: as rnd 30

Rnd 33: as rnd 31

Finish off and weave in ends.

Hanger

Row 1: Using B & leaving a long tail, ch 26. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (25)

Row 2: Ch 1, sl st in same st as ch 1 and in each st across. Turn. (25)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st across. Finish off leaving a long tail.

Do not weave in ends.

Fold hanger in half and sew to inside of stocking near the bottom of the cuff using yarn tails.

Weave in ends.

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11 Comments

  1. Thank you for such clear and easy-to-follow instructions. I had great fun making this stocking and am very pleased with the results.

  2. Absolutely loved this pattern and accompanying video. I didn’t have to change hook sizes for the fair isle. I repeated the stripes and dots from the bottom again before the trim. For wow factor I used a honeycomb border instead of the provided trim pattern. Turned out beautifully, no problems with the heel when using the accompanying video. It’s easy to increase or decrease to correct your heel if you’re not getting the right count. Very sturdy finished product. I lined it with fabric and attached it below the trim with a metal embroidery needle and yarn, catching only the back of the posts so you can’t see the work from the outside. Will be making again!!

  3. Any tips to keep the seam straight? I’ve made a couple of them for my family but the seam constantly travels to the right. Thanks in advance for any advice!

  4. Hello, love the pattern, however, I noticed that your rounds are off. You have the toe listed as rounds 1-8, but then the foot goes from round 8 on. The foot should start at round 9.

  5. For the gauge-do I do a ch 4, slip stitch, then 7 sc in the round x7? Or is it just 7 rows of 7 sc’s worked into a chain? Thank you!

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