This textured crochet hat pattern features a honeycomb cable stitch. This hat is sure to keep you looking stylish and cozy this winter.
I saw this stitch in one of my many crochet stitch dictionaries and immediately knew it had to be a hat. I’ve been wearing this crochet hat for years now and it is still one of my favorites.
Crochet Post Stitches
This is definitely more of an intermediate crochet pattern. Besides a standard single and double crochet, you’ll have to know how to make post stitches, front post treble crochet to be specific. Front post stitches are worked around the post or stem of the stitch rather than in the top ‘V’.
The post stitches make this hat stand out. I mean really look at all that awesome texture in the pic above (but please excuse my wild and crazy hair, it does what it wants.)
Yarn Substitution Ideas
The yarn originally used in this pattern has since been discontinued. When looking for a substitute you want an Aran or bulky weight yarn that has approximately 137 yds per 3.5oz skein. You will need the full 137 yards for this hat.
Here are a couple of options I’ve found but have not tried:
- Berroco Vintage Chunky
- Love Crafts Paintbox Chunky
- Lion Brand Scarfie
- WeCrochet Brava Bulky
- Big Twist Gentle from Joann – This one I recently just used and it is almost exactly like the original yarn called for in the pattern.
Materials and Pattern Information
- 1 skein of #4/Worsted Weight Big Twist Yarns: Premium 3.5 ounces/137 yds per skein I used the color called Ocean.
- 6mm/J Clover Amour Crochet Hook
- Needle to weave in ends
Gauge and Sizing
- Gauge: 8 BLO sc x 6 rows = 2 inches
- Finished Hat Measures: 9 in wide x 9 inches tall
- I use US Terminology
- Ch(s): chain(s)
- St(s): stitches
- Dc: double crochet
- Sl st: slip stitch
- FPTR: Front Post Treble Crochet
- St(s): stitch(es)
- Sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together, single crochet decrease
- Sc: single crochet
- BLO: back loop only
Ch 2 does not count as a dc.
I have also made this with Red Heart Super Saver (the gold hat below) with very close to the same results. It was a teensy bit smaller though – a great for a child size hat! You can see better yarn substitutions listed above.
How to Modify Size of Hat: If you want to make this hat in a bigger or smaller size modify the length of your band accordingly and be sure your stitches in Round 1 end up being a multiple of 8. Then just add more or fewer rounds until you get the desired size. Keep in mind you will need more or less yarn if you decide to make this hat bigger/smaller
Honeycomb Cable Stitch Crochet Beanie Pattern
Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Turn (8)
Row 2-56: Ch 1, Working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each across. (8)
At the end of last row join your band together at the corner with a sl st. We will come back later and whip stitch the rest of the band closed.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around. Join to top of 1st dc with sl st. (56)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, Dc in same st as ch 2 and in next st. *Skip 1 st. Dc in next 2 sts. Working in front of 2 dc just made, FPTR around skipped st. Skip 2 sts FPTR around next. Working behind the FPTR, dc in the 2 skipped sts. Dc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. Join to top of 1st dc with slst. (56 sts/7 groups of cables)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, Dc in same st as ch 2 and in next st. *Skip 2 sts, FPTR around the FPTR from previous round. Working behind the FPTR, dc in 2 skipped sts. Skip 1 st. Dc in next 2. Working in front of the 2 dc just made, FPTR around skipped st. Dc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. Join to top of 1st dc with slst. (56 stst/ 7 groups of cables)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2 and in next st. * Skip FPTR, dc in next 2 sts, Working in front of 2 dc just made, FPTR around skipped FPTR, Skip 2 sts, FPTR around next FPTR, Working behind FPTR just made, dc in 2 skipped sts. Dc in next 2. Repeat from * around. Join to top of 1st dc with slst. (56 stst/ 7 groups of cables)
Rnd 5-10: repeat rnd 3 and 4
Rnd 11-13: ch 1, sc2tog starting in same st as ch 1, Sc2tog around. Join to top of 1st sc2tog with sl st.
Counting is not necessary for these last 3 rounds, since we are just using the sc2tog as a means of cinching the hat together. If your stitches don’t end up exact that’s ok, just fudge it and move on to the next round.
At the end of round 13, finish off and cut your yarn, thread it through your tapestry needle and weave the yarn in and out around the small remaining hole, cinch it, and put a couple of stitches in it to secure.
Moving back down to the band of the hat, use your tapestry needle to whip stitch the band closed.
Weave in all ends.
Check out the matching fingerless gloves HERE!
Honeycomb Cable Stitch Photo Tutorial
I have had a lot of requests for a tutorial showing how to do the cable portion of this hat. So here we go, I am going to show you how to do 1 cable section in rounds 2 and 3.
Picture 1 shows the 2 dc, skip 1, 2 dc. Moving on to Picture 2, you are going to work back across the front of the last 2 dc you just made and FpTc around the skipped dc. Your FpTc will lay across your 2 dc. Then you will skip 2 dc and FpTc around the next dc like in Picture 3. Then go back and dc in each skipped dc like in Picture 4.
After that your cable should be looking like the picture above. Continue around the hat and lets move to Round 3.
Picture 5 and 6 show 2 dc, skip 2 dc and FpTc around the FpTc from the previous round. Then working behind the FpTc you just made (picture 7) make a dc in each of the 2 skipped stitches. At this point it should look like picture 8.
Then not counting the 1st FpTc from the previous round because we filled that stitch with a FpTc, skip 1 stitch (which is a FpTc) and dc in next 2 stitches (which are the 2 dc’s from the previous round), it should look like picture 9. Then working across the front of the 2 dc you just made, go back and make a FpTc around the skipped FpTc from the previous round (picture 10). Continue around the hat.