The Full Stitch is an incredibly easy basic Tunisian crochet stitch that, when used in an all-over pattern, creates a woven look. You might also see this stitch called the Gobelin stitch.
It reminds of the linen/moss stitch in regular crochet!
This is the 5th block in the Country Cottage Tunisian Sampler, our 2026 year-long crochet along. It’s not too late to join the party. You can find all the details you need to get started here.
Every other week throughout the year, a new square pattern featuring a different Tunisian crochet stitch or technique will be released.

Print + Crochet in Comfort
You can find a low-cost AD-FREE printable version of this crochet pattern in my shop. You can print it out or use it digitally on your devices. This is a pre-order, so you will be sent a new PDF each time a square is released.
You can also find this pattern on Ravelry .
Full Stitch Basics
This stitch is so easy! To make a full stitch, all you do is insert your hook in the space between stitches and pull up a loop. In a crochet pattern, you’ll see this stitch abbreviated as TFS.
When this stitch is worked by itself, it is called the Full stitch, but when it is worked in an allover pattern like our square today, you might also see it called the Gobelin stitch.
The full stitch can also be used to increase the number of stitches in your project!
Tunisian Crochet Gobelin Stitch
The Tunisian full stitch worked in rows is called the Gobelin stitch. It can be worked over any number of starting chains, has a 2-row repeat, and moderate curling.
Since the full stitch can be used to increase the number of stitches, when worked in rows, the starting position of the first stitch must be alternated, otherwise your project will get bigger with each row completed.

Row 1: To start, complete a standard foundation row.

Row 2: This row will start by working a TFS between the 2nd and 3rd stitch of the previous row.

TFS in each space across the row.

End with an LTS and complete a standard return pass. If you are changing color, work the return pass until there are 2 loops left, yarn over with the new color, and pull through the final 2 loops.

Row 3: To start this row, work a TFS between the 1st and 2nd stitch of the previous row.

TFS in each space across up to the final space.

Skip this space and end with an LTS

Complete a standard return pass, changing color as before if desired.

Repeat rows 2 & 3

Materials and Pattern Information
- 120 yds worsted weight yarn in 1, 2 or 3 colors. I Love This Yarn used in sample
- 6.5 mm Tunisian crochet hook
- 6 mm crochet hook (for border)
- Scissors + Yarn Needle
Gauge and Sizing
- Gauge: 6 sts x 6 rows = 2 in
- Worked in pattern stitch
- Finished Size: 12 in x 12 in after blocking
Abbreviations
- US Terminology
- Ch(s): chain(s)
- Yo: yarnover
- Tfs: Tunisian full stitch
- Sc: single crochet
- Sl st: slip stitch
Special Stitches
Tunisian Full Stitch (TFS): insert hook from front to back in space between sts, yo, pull up loop
Last Tunisian Stitch (LTS): Insert hook from right to left under 2 vertical bars at edge of work, yarnover, pull up loop.
Notes
- To modify size, chain any number
- Last loop on the hook after return pass counts as 1st loop of next row forward pass
- This stitch has moderate curling
- When inserting your hook between stitches, be careful not to go between front and back vertical bars, as this would be a knit stitch.
- I used 3 colors and changed color for each row – to do this work your return pass until there are 2 loops left on your hook, yarnover with new color and pull through 2 loops. Carry your unused colors up the side and crochet over them while adding the border.
- CAL Video Tutorials Playlist

Tunisian Full Stitch 12″ Square Written Pattern
Foundation Row 1:
A (forward pass): Ch 35, starting in back bump of 2nd ch from hook, pull up loop in each ch across. (35 loops on hook)
B (return pass): yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * across until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 2:
A: *Tfs between 2nd and 3rd sts, tfs into each space between sts across. Lts in last. (35 loops on hook)
B: yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * across. 1 loop remains on hook. See pattern notes for information about color changes.
Row 3
A: *Tfs between 1st and 2nd sts, tfs into each space between sts across up to last space, skip last space. Lts in last. (35 loops on hook)
B: yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * across. 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 4-End: repeat rows 2 & 3 until piece is square, for me this was 38 rows. After return pass of last row, bind off.
Bind off Row: Complete the standard Tunisian simple stitch bind-off. * Insert your hook from right to left under vertical bar. Yo, pull through the vertical bar and loop on your hook. Repeat from across until all stitches are worked off.
Border: Do not finish off. Using 6 mm crochet hook, ch 1, sc evenly around, placing (sc, ch 2 sc) in each corner. Join to top of 1st sc with slst. Finish off, weave in ends. Block to 12 inches. (35 Sc on each side)
**Note: the number of single crochets worked on each raw edge should be the same number as the top and bottom edges. You may have to add or subtract stitches to get 35 on the raw edges. Each square will have around 35 (+/- a couple stitches, depending on the stitch multiple) to make joining easy and flat.


Hi Heather,
I was about to write and ask for help with my square turning into some wonky left-leaning parallelogram! Started over for the 2nd time, and it’s doing that left lean again. I remembered from a Tunisian shawl pattern I worked to alternate where to start in the rows, and then jumped back on here to check the directions – lo and behold – the moral of the story – read the pattern all the way through. Jeepers! I should know better! Anyway, despite the start-overs, I’m really loving this crochet-along. I’ve posted in-progress pics on IG and tagged you if you’d like to see them. Thanks very much for doing this!