One of the big crochet trends I am seeing this fall is texture. Whether it is on a hat, scarf, sweater, cowl, mittens, blanket, it is all about that texture. Playing with textures in crochet is one of my favorite things about designing.
When it comes to crochet textures, cables are the ultimate. I was first introduced to cables a couple years ago when I made this Cabled Slouchy Beanie by Stephanie from All About Ami. Ever since I made that hat, I have had a love affair with all things crochet cables and textures. It opened a whole new world to me.
I mean really look at all that awesome texture in the pic above (but please excuse my wild and crazy hair, it does what it wants LOL).
If you’ve never tried anything like this hat before, don’t worry, the only special stitch you need to know is the Front Post Treble Crochet. If you are unfamiliar with making post stitches Tamara over at Moogly has a fantastic video tutorial showing you where exactly to insert your hook.
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- 1 skein of #4/Worsted Weight Big Twist Yarns: Premium 3.5 ounces/137 yds per skein I used the color called Ocean.
- 6mm/J Clover Amour Crochet Hook *(aff link)
- Needle to weave in ends
Gauge and Sizing
- Gauge: 8 BLO sc x 6 rows = 2 inches
- Finished Hat Measures: 9 in wide x 9 inches tall
- I use US Terminology
- Ch(s): chain(s)
- Dc: double crochet
- Sl st: slip stitch
- FpTr: Front Post Treble Crochet
- St(s): stitch(es)
- Sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together, single crochet decrease
- Sc: single crochet
- BLO: back loop only
Ch 2 does not count as a dc.
I have also made this with Red Heart Super Saver (the gold hat below) with very close to the same results. It was a teensy bit smaller though. I think a better yarn substitution would be something like Red Heart with Love, as its a little thicker yarn.
HoneyComb Cabled Beanie Pattern
Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Turn (8)
Row 2-56: Ch 1, Working in BLO, sc in same st as ch 1 and in each across. (8)
At the end of last row join your band together at the corner with a sl st. We will come back later and whip stitch the rest of the band closed.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around. Join to top of 1st dc with sl st. (56)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, Dc in same st as ch 2 and in next st. Skip 1 st. Dc in next 2 sts. Working in front of the 2 dc you just made, FpTc around skipped st. Skip 2 sts FpTc around next. Working behind the FpTc, dc in the 2 skipped sts. *Dc in next 2 sts. Skip 1 st. dc in next 2 sts. Working in front of the 2 dc you just made, FpTc around skipped st. Skip 2 sts FpTc around next. Working behind the FpTc, dc in the 2 skipped sts. Repeat from * around. Join to top of 1st dc with sl st. (56 sts/7 groups of cables)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, Dc in same st as ch 2 and in next st. Skip 2 sts, FpTc around the FpTc from previous round. Working behind the FpTc, dc in the 2 skipped sts. Skip 1 st. Dc in next 2. Working in front of the 2 dc you just made, FpTc around skipped st. *Dc in next 2 sts. Skip 2 sts, FpTc around the FpTc from previous round. Working behind the FpTc, dc in the 2 skipped sts. Skip 1 st. Dc in next 2. Working in front of the 2 dc you just made, FpTc around skipped st. Repeat from * around. Join to top of 1st dc with sl st. (56 stst/ 7 groups of cables)
Rnd 4-11: repeat rnds 2 and 3
Rnd 12-14: ch 1, sc2tog starting in same st as ch 1, Sc2tog around. Join to top of 1st sc2tog with sl st.
Counting is not necessary for these last 3 rounds, since we are just using the sc2tog as a means of cinching the hat together. If your stitches don’t end up exact that’s ok, just fudge it and move on to the next round.
At the end of round 14, finish off and cut your yarn, thread it through your tapestry needle and weave the yarn in and out around the small remaining hole, cinch it and put a couple stitches in it to secure.
Moving back down to the band of the hat, use your tapestry needle to whip stitch the band closed.
Weave in all ends.