This week we are going to join our squares and crochet a border on our finished blanket. I don’t like to sew granny squares together so we’ll be using our crochet hooks to crochet them together instead. Then we will finish it off with a really unique mosaic crochet border pattern.
Even though this is officially the end of our 2021 Crochet Along, the patterns will stay linked here on the blog. CLICK HERE to get all the info!
Crocheting with friends is more fun! Join my crochet group on Facebook and show of your squares, chat with other crocheters and get your crochet questions answered.
Joining Crochet Squares Materials and Info
- 100 yds worsted weight yarn in color of choice ( I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color Taupe)
- 5mm crochet hook
Getting your squares ready to join
The first step in joining your square is to make sure they are all the same size. This is very important. Don’t worry about the stitch counts. If you have a square that is too small, you can add a round of single crochets. If it’s too big you may need to take out a round of stitches.
At this point, I also like to have my ends woven in.
The next step is deciding on a layout for your crochet squares.
I just put mine out on the floor in a 4×5 rectangle and moved them into different spots as I felt necessary.
Once you’ve decided on a layout, snap a picture with your cell phone just in case things get mixed up.
Joining Crochet Squares
I decided to use the single crochet join for this project. We also used this join on the Sweet Lilac Throw.
Is super easy and makes a really nice sturdy join. Row 1 and row 2 are joined first, then just keep adding rows. After all the rows are joined horizontally you will join the verticals.
You can find the joining instructions here, scroll down to where it says “easy single crochet join”
In the tutorial, it says to put your square with right sides facing outwards but I did mine with right sides facing inwards. You can do it either way. The first way will create a ridge on the front, the way I did it is smooth on the front with the ridge on the back.
Of course, this is your blanket so if this join doesn’t appeal to you please feel free to pick another one! Here are a few ideas.
Since our squares are all different, they all have a different amount of stitches along each side. To join squares like this, you’ll need to do a little fudging by either adding or skipping stitches. It’s really not noticeable at all as long as your skipped or added stitches are spread out semi-evenly.
I am not a blanket border person. Usually, I just do a round of single crochets or none at all but I was feeling inspired for this one. Ever since we did that lovely mosaic crochet design on Block 16, I’ve been a little bit obsessed with it.
I decided to channel that energy into this unique crochet border.
It did have some challenges but I hope I’ve worked out the kinks for you all.
As always, if this border is not your style don’t feel like you have to do it, just pick another one. Here are a few other ideas.
Border Materials and Information
- 300 yds worsted weight yarn in the main color (MC) – I used Vannas Choice in Taupe
- 210 yds worsted weight yarn in coordinating color (CC) – I used Vanna’s Choice Fisherman
- 4.5mm crochet hook
- I origianlly started this border with a 5mm hook but it was rippling, going down a hook size fixed this.
- Scissors, tapestry needle
- US Terminology
- Ch(s): chain(s)
- St: stitch(es)
- Sc: single crochet
- Sl St: slip stitch
- MDC: work double crochet in front of the chains of previous rows into skipped stitch 2 rows below. See photos below.
- Ch 1 does not count as a stitch
- When working turned rounds be sure that your first stitch is placed in the last stitch of the previous round and not the slip stitch join. The last stitch will be placed in the same stitch you joined the previous round. See photo below.
- Each side increases by 2 stitches per round. Total per round increase = 8 stitches
- Watch for hidden MDC stitches on even turned rounds.
- Don’t work your MDC stitches too tight or your border might curl. If this happens you can pin it out and steam block the egdges.
Boxed In Mosaic Crochet Border Instructions
Rnd 1: Join yarn in 1st st after any corner ch-1 space, sc evenly around placing (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner space. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Do not turn.
Count how many stitches are on each side and make a note, marking what corner you started in so you don’t mix them up.
Figure out how many stitches you need to decrease per side to make those numbers a multiple of 4 + 1 AND even side/side and top/bottom
This is how mine worked out:
Here are some example numbers, you may need more or less.
Short sides 149,153, 157, 161, 165
Long sides: 197, 201, 205, 209,
Double-check your counts and continue on to round 2.
Round 2 Notes: In this round, you’ll single crochet around placing your decreases (sc2tog) you need to do for each side evenly apart. This does not have to be exact, just spread them out and you should be good.
Also, pay no attention to the fact that you’re decreasing stitches on each side but adding stitches at the corners. I have factored that in, just trust me.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch1 and around, placing (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner ch-1 space and spreading out your decreases (sc2tog) evenly. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Change to CC. Do Not Turn.
After this round, your stitch count should be a multiple of 4 + 3 on each side. This is where those added corner stitches came in. You now have enough stitches for the pattern.
Rnd 3: Using CC, Ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1, [* ch 2, skip 1 st, sc 3. Repeat from * across side to corner ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 space, sc 3] 3 more times omitting final sc on last repeat. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Turn.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 3, [(sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 space, sc 4, *ch 2, skip 2 chs, sc 3. Repeat from * across side until 1 st remains. Sc.] 3 more times omitting final 3 sc on last repeat. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Change to MC. Turn.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc, [*MDC, ch 2, skip 1, sc, ch 2, skip 1. Repeat from * across side to last ch-2 space. Mdc, sc 5, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 space, sc 5] 3 more times omitting final sc on last repeat. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Turn
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 5, [(sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 space, sc 7, *ch 2, skip 2 chs, sc. Repeat from * across side to last ch-2 space. Ch 2, skip ch-2 space, sc 7] 3 more times omitting the final 5 sc on last repeat. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Change to CC. Turn.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc, [*ch 2, skip 1 st, MDC, sc, MDC. Repeat from * across side until 8 sts remain. Ch 2, skip 1 st. sc 7, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-1 space, sc 7] 3 more times omitting final sc on last repeat. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Turn
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc 7, [(sc, ch 1, sc), sc 8, *ch 2, skip 2 chs, sc 3. Repeat from * across side until to last ch-2 space, ch 2, skip 2 chs, sc 8] 3 more times omitting final 7 sc on last repeat. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Change to MC. Turn
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc, [*MDC, sc 3. Repeat from * across side to last ch-2 space, MDC, sc 9, (sc, ch 1, sc), sc 9] 3 more times omitting final sc on last repeat. Join to top of 1st sc with sl st. Finish off. Weave in ends.